Eyebright from Liz Earle

Soothing eye lotion, an absolute must have for contact lens wearers and sufferers of itchy, dry eyes and highly emotional people!

Ingredients

Eyebright – used for centuries by homeopaths to preserve the eyesight
Cornflower – used traditionally for weak eyes
Witch Hazel – is known to have ophthalmology uses
Organic Aloe Vera - used by traditional herbalists for eye pain

Eye lotions

These are very rare to find, generally its eye drops for non contact lens wearers.  I have been a contact lens wearer for decades, starting with hard lens, gas permeable, soft, tinted, soft perms, silicone and toric lens.  I have had more than my fair share of eye infections, cornea scarring, angry blood vessels and due to my eye condition (keratonic) the cure is wearing gas permeable lens, which are agonising when a speck of dust goes behind them.  So I know all about painful, itchy, bloodshot eyes and that’s when I put them in some mornings, not at the end of the day.

I have used eye drops suitable for lens wearers and the relief they offer is very brief.  I also always have this on hand as by quickly wiping my eyes with a moistened cotton pad, they are revived enough to put in contact lens, can be used to gently remove make-up.  When I’ve got trouble with my cornea and its inflamed I find leaving moistened pads on for 5 minutes calms the eye dramatically.  Effective in reducing puffy eyes, tear soaked eyes.

  
Rating

Value for money – £10.00 for a 150 ml bottle which will last a long time, available online and via John Lewis stores
Effectiveness – most effective product I’ve tried to relieve my poor eyes
Pampering factor – this is like a spa for your eyes
Highly Recommended

L’oreal Elvive Smooth Intense Anti-frizz Shampoo

I’ve never really had a favourite shampoo before and am usually content to try any brand which is on offer.  I selected this one as it claims to nourish and tame dry, frizzy rebellious hair and I quite liked the rebellious hair segmentation. 

Ingredients
The ingredients are pretty straightforward and fairy typical of most shampoo formulations which are intended to clean the hair of dirt and grease without irritating the scalp and stinging the eyes, smooth the hair cuticle and condition it, all in the quick time it takes to wash your hair.
Argan Oil – this appears halfway down the ingredient list and I believe is the main ingredient responsible for making this shampoo so effective.  Argan Oil is well known to revive and strengthen hair and tame frizz and is often used as a standalone product and I have friends who swear by using it as a hair treatment.  So to have it incorporated into a shampoo formulation gives you the benefits on a daily basis whilst getting your hair clean.
48 Hour Thermal protection is also offered, usually polymers provide this, but I’m not sure what’s giving the protection in this particular formulation

Natural vs. Performance Shampoos

I’ve been asked many times to recommend a good natural organic shampoo and I tend to ask if that persons hair is completely natural ie never been coloured, hi-lighted, blow dried, permed, heat styled etc.  As most women do not leave their hair completely natural, our hair is going to need ingredients that make it manageable and looking its best, and it’s very hard to achieve this with natural ingredients.  I’ve sold a lot of hair care and hair styling ingredients and it’s very hard to get a natural organic hair product with the performance of a more chemical based one. 

Good Hair Ingredients

Silicones are excellent, they smooth down the cuticles to give a more glossy effect with less flyaway
Vegetable proteins are absorbed into the hair keratin to strengthen the hair – actually beer would be a good source of this!
Quarternium and guar gums for conditioning
Oils – petrochemical or vegetable oil based are always good for improving shine and conditioning

Hair Type Segmentation

The only difference between blondes and brunette (hair that is) is that brunette hair is thinner, so not much difference between shampoos, extracts with blonde or brunette references ie chamomile or horse chestnut could be used but this would be in minuscule quantities.  Most designer hair ranges are made by contract manufacturers who also produce the supermarket ranges and would likely use very similar formulations, remember hairdressers are not cosmetic scientists, the biggest difference between a designer shampoo and supermarket shampoo is the profit margin, not the formulation or packaging costs!

Rating

Value for money – available from most stockists of shampoos and usually < £3.00 for 250 ml
Effectiveness – the foam is noticeably creamer than other shampoos and I now find after over a month of regular usage I occasionally need to use condition and serum instead of every time I washed my hair to make it look half decent
Pampering factor – nice creamy foam, fragrance, and hair is nicely cleansed without the aggressive squeaky feeling, and feels much softer and yes, is not so rebellious!
Highly Recommended

Why I Love Lush Shower Gels

There is huge amount of choice when it comes to shower gels with most of them making wonderful promises, most of them mood altering.   Flying Fox has been my favourite for the past 6 years, with very few exceptions, even taking 2 large bottles with me for my year living in Vietnam!

What’s the Difference between Shower Gels?

The vast majority of shower gels will all share the 3 following main ingredients at the very top of the label ie water, SLS/sodium laureth sulphate (cleaning/foaming action), cocamidyl betaine (to reduce irritancy of the sodium laureth sulphate).  If you are looking for shower gel that will get you clean with a pleasant fragrance, than there is no need to spend more than £1.    As there will be very little difference between most shower gels, and because the contact time with your skin is very quick, a shower gel will not be able to deliver anti-ageing, anti-cellulite promised etc.  If there is a deviation from those top 3 ingredients, than I would say its worth paying more, especially if contains a lot of botanical ingredients.

SLS/ SLES free?

In an ideal world no shampoo or shower gel would contain these, and it is possible to produce without, but a price, and the risk of losing foaming activity.  I do think Lush are very serious about using as few chemicals as possible, and the fact they use such a high level of natural ingredients, for me, balances out the use of SLS.

Skin Affinity

Shower gels are by nature rinse-off’s and are only in contact with the skin for a short period of time, therefore if a product does contain anything for anti-ageing, anti-cellulite it will be in at minuscule levels and give very little effect.  Sodium laureth sulphate is harsh on the skin, but is very cheap <80 p / kg and is gives the squeaky clean feeling with bubbles; therefore a betaine is always included as a co-surfactant to give mildness.

TIP: Use a puff for milder shower gels, as this increases foaming and makes the product last a lot longer.

Flying Fox Ingredients

The 1^st 7 ingredients are natural – so there’s a big difference already, and the next difference is having a higher quantity of the milder co-surfactant than sodium laureth sulfate.  It contains 15 natural ingredients (included 3 types of honey) compared to 6 chemicals, this ratio would be the opposite with most shower gels.

Rating

Value for money – more expensive than other shower gels, with prices ranging from £4.50 (100g) up to £15.75 (500g) however, not comparable with other shower gels. 
Effectiveness – contains the essential ingredients to be a shower gel with more than your average natural ingredients
Pampering factor – the heady fragrance of jasmine absolute and ylang ylang is divine
Highly Recommended – if you want a truly indulgent shower gel with essential oils
Available from Lush stores and online.

Happy Hippy Ingredients

The 1^st 4 ingredients are natural, followed by sodium laureth sulphate, and 2 milder co-surfactants and then 5 natural ingredients and have a ratio of 8 natural ingredients vs. 6 chemicals.

Rating

Value for money – less expensive than other Lush shower gels, with prices ranging from £3.25 (100g) up to £10.25 (500g). 
Pampering factor – wonderful combination of grapefruit, frankincense and bergamot essential oils

Ultimate Youth Eye Cream from Balance Active Formula

Here is another incredibly good value product from Balance Active Formula, this is the 3rd product I've tried from them and I'm not disappointed.  I've tested and researched the ingredients from the active manufacturers website and looked at the supporting evidence and its really good to see skin care products containing high quality actives that are affordable, goes to show how much money can be saved on packaging, marketing and not comprise the quality of the product.

Ingredients
1) EyeProx3X  - clinically proven to dramatically reduce dark circles in just 4 weeks and boost collagen production and hydration
2) Easyliance – proven to reduce crow’s feet within 4 weeks with immediate lifting and tightening effect
Paraben and Silicone free

Eye Creams vs. Day or Night creams

Eye creams tend to be formulated so that they sink into the skin quickly; the skin around the eye is typically thinner and more fragile, so it not ideal to apply a product that is draggy or takes a while to be absorbed.  Look for an eye cream that offers something specific ie dark circles, puffy eyes, and crow’s feet; otherwise you’re probably using a lighter version of your day/night cream.

How it Works

1) Two natural ingredients; Saccharomyces Cerevisiae & Rhodiola rosea work synergistically to break down fatty deposits and controls excessive fluid up which causes to puffy eyes 
2) Hydrolyzed rhizobian gum & acacia gum works synergistically to give a vegetable equivalent of Botox, it works by tensing and relaxing the skin thereby smoothing out fine lines, and improves appearance of skin with repeated use

Skin Affinity

It’s quite a thick consistency, but melts nicely into the under eye area with a little gentle patting, there is a tightening effect but its quite slight.

Rating

Value for money – hard to beat @£4.99 from Savers & online http://www.balancecosmetics.co.uk/about.aspx
Effectiveness – if used continuously you will see reduction of dark circles and bags within 7 days, after that it seems to level out, fine lines do appear to be reduced
Pampering factor – because its good value, it’s possible to apply liberally
Highly recommended –one will last a long time and give lasting results
USP – made in UK, so you will be supporting UK manufacturing

Vitamin C Elixir from Balance Active Formula

It was an unexpected surprise to see such a high end skin care product in Savers, a budget health and beauty store.  There were some very interesting products in this new range called Balance Active from Brodie & Stone, but I decided to just select the Vitamin C for now. 

Ingredients
6% Illumiscin® – this is a patented blend of Vitamin C, Zinc PCA and Oleuropein (from Olive tree) – individually they are effective, so there should be great synergy combined.
6% Stay-C 50® – Vitamin C is proven to be a very effective anti-oxidant and to give radiance to the skin, it also improves skin firmness by boosting collagen production.
Paraben and silicone free

How it Works

Vitamin C is very well known and well documented as being very good for lightening an brightening the skin, as well as being an anti-oxidant.  Zinc PCA is well documented to be very effective for preventing oiliness as it regulates sebum production.  Oleuropein is also well documented to be effective against ageing, is anti-inflammatory and can reduce dark pigmentation.  Illumiscin has very good data on reducing the size of age spots.  http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/ingredient/active/83553552.html

Serum Powder Mix

This is the first time I’ve used one of these, I have seen them in high end ranges sold in Space NK, and it’s not a gimmick as Vitamin C is unstable, and is normally a nightmare for cosmetic scientists to work with, as it discolours and goes off, leaving it ineffective.  By having the two products separate means that the consumer becomes the chemist and mixes the two parts, creating a potent product with a shelf life of one month.   

Skin Affinity

You apply it with the pipette dropper, I tend to fill it twice to about 1/3 full, and that’s enough to cover the face and neck area.  Sinks in very quickly so you can apply day or night cream over the top,

Rating

Value for money – found it in Savers for £4.99!  Seriously this would cost closer to £50 in other outlets
Effectiveness – both my boyfriend and I have been using this for the past 2 weeks and we are both looking radiant, in fact my skin looks so clear it looks like I’m wearing base, the skin tone is so even and glowing
Pampering factor – applying effective ingredients in a novel component, feels very high tech
Highly Recommended – Go and out and buy up this range now, its unbelievable at this price, and its made in UK

Vaseline Cocoa Butter Revitalising Gel Body

I picked up this product as I do like cocoa butter as it’s a lovely natural ingredient with a high nourishing content with good skin affinity and this seemed like a novel variant.

Ingredients
Petrolatum – contains lots of it
Cocoa Butter – doesn’t contain any, only cocoa butter fragrance, which I find misleading
Brazilian & almond Oil – inexpensive natural vegetable oils & almond oils

Petrolatum (Pet Jelly)
Petrolatum is a by product of petrol and is very cheap around 50p / kg.  It’s been used in cosmetics for decades because it does perform well in moisturisation tests.  If I pick up a premium product ie Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream and see that petrolatum features quite high on the ingredient list, I put it back, as I think it’s insulting to market a product as premium that contains petrolatum.  There are natural alternatives from castor oil which is naturally sourced from castor beans (Ricinus communis).   I did at one time present this to the UK cosmetic industry, although it was generally acknowledged that it was an excellent substitute for petrolatum, it was considered way too expensive at > £5 / kg.  If the personal care industry was very serious about moving to a natural alternative and switched en masse than economies of scale would make it possible for to bring prices down.

Moisturisation Tests

Emollients or moisturisers are generally tested by their ability to prevent TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) or evaporation of the natural water content of our skin.   Petrolatum lies as a heavy occlusive layer on the skin surface thereby preventing TEWL, vegetable oils are similar to the oils naturally present in the skin, and therefore add moisture in a more natural way.   Petrolatums are often used as a standard or benchmark in TEWL tests so its very effective occlusive agent.  I have met people who only use Vaseline on their skin, and their skin is usually in very good condition for their age, so I guess if you ever found yourself home and really couldn’t afford anything decent – Vaseline would be your best option. 

Skin Affinity
Feels like molten Vaseline and feels very greasy, however skin continues to feel moisturised after a few hours which not all body lotions deliver.

Rating
Value for money – £4.89 over-priced for Vaseline
Availability – Boots, Superdrug and most supermarkets
Effectiveness – I was surprised at how moisturised my skin felt a few hours after
Pampering factor – I do like the high sheen it leaves on legs, so think it’s a good summer time product
Recommended – just OK

Max Hydration from Balance Active Formula

Hyaluronic 554 Youth Serum promising immediate hydration and 24 hour non-stop moisturisation

Ingredients

5% Hylasome® EG10 – cross linked hyaluronic acid
& added Syn®-Ake – botox like peptide
Does not contain parabens or silicones and is simple no nonsense formulation

Serums

This is an aqueous based serum with carrageen gum thickening agents and the main active itself if in an aqueous gel, rather than typical silicone based serums.  I really like the pipette dropper application, makes it very high tech.

How it Works
Hyaluronic acid is a well known cosmetic ingredient popular because of its impressive water binding properties which makes it possible to deliver moisturisation into the skin over a period of time – in this case 24 hours.   Normally it’s sold in powder form or solution and is one of those actives which are +_ £2000 per kg.  This is sodium hyaluronic cross polymer which is probably cheaper as its' a solution of hyaluronic acid, but 5% is still high level and is clinically tested to deliver non stop moisturisation for 24 hours, the glycerine would help with this too, as it acts as humectants to keep moisture in.  Most manufacturers rarely put over 1% active in, and usually make a USP of having a higher level.

Syn®-Ake has also been around for a while, it’s the best known peptide for relaxing facial muscles resulting in fewer expression lines.  Peptides are synthetic versions of proteins which occur naturally in the body and are involved with cellular communication.  Peptides are effective at low levels ie 0.5 – 2%

Skin Affinity

Hyaluronic acid is very safe to use, in fact it’s often used in dermal fillers which are injected, and is many skin care formulations.  This serum goes on easily, is cooling and sinks in very fast, without leaving any oily or greasy residue, so you can put make up or skin cream over the top.  I think it’s an essential product to apply after sun exposure, to replenish loss of moisture in the skin.

Rating

Value for money – hard to beat @£4.99 from Savers & online www.balancecosmetics.co.uk
Effectiveness – clinically proven actives at dramatically higher percentage than usual – it’s definitely going to work
Pampering factor – very high, to put such high tech skin care on your face knowing it costs so little is priceless
Highly recommended – don’t just buy one buy up all the stock, this is a rare find!
USP – made in UK, so you will be supporting UK manufacturing

Barry M Instant Nail Effects Nail Paint in Black

I quite like nail effects, especially glitter which I apply over a nail polish to give a more sparkly effect on my toes but this particularly product is very cool.  I had a meeting with the chemist at Barry M and admired her unusual nail polish.  She explained that this is a new product which is flying off the shelves and gave me a sample to try.  I’ve mainly been using it on my toes (putting nail polish on my fingers is a very short term relationship, so I tend not to bother) over my favourite lilac chrome polish, but with assistance of my friend, decided to see what the effect looked like over different colours.  I apologise in advance for the poor quality photos, as photography is not my strong point, nor my friends.

Ingredients

Nail polish formulations tend to be very similar and there are actually very few manufacturers of nail polishes in the world (I know of two in the UK) as the ingredients are highly flammable and special licenses are needed to hold stock of these ingredients and work with them.  Therefore there will be little to choose between brands, as innovation usually comes from the pearl supplier and packaging suppliers.   I wonder whether this effect was discovered by accident, I’m guessing it’s a kind of plastic that shrinks, or partly evaporates in liquid form when in contact with air.

 

Application

Apply to dry nails, and watch the black top coat shrink before your eyes!  Manufacturer does recommend not overlapping product when applying. 

 

Rating

Value for money – excellent, costs £2.99 from Boots and Superdrug which have Barry M displays

Effectiveness – does exactly what it says – gives a nail effect, which is quite eye-catching and unique, as it will look different depending on the nail polish underneath
Pampering factor – I don’t find applying nail polish pampering, unless its following a hand or foot massage and manicure/pedicure
Definitely give it a try

I've been embarassed by these photos, so I did my toenails the other day, and this gives a better indication of the nail effect.

 

Skin Sparkle Radiance Revealing Polish System, Virgin Vie

Ingredients

1)   Vitamin C Crystal Polish contains silica and sodium bicarbonate crystals to exfoliate the skin with Vitamin E, C & A to deliver anti-oxidant protection
2)  Energising Activating Serum contains lactic acid and salicylic acid to remove dead skin cells with citric acid boosted by galactoarabinan

Peels or Scrubs?

There are pros and cons for each of the above, but its generally good to help the skin along with cell renewal by exfoliating once a week.  There are several exfoliating scrubs on the market varying from rough to very gentle.  Skin Peels outside of a salon are a bit rarer, as they can be a bit aggressive and not suitable for all skins

How it Works

This is based on micro-dermabrasion technology which blasts crystals onto the skin surface to reveal new radiant skin underneath.  This is a home method whereby you massage in the crystals to exfoliate, calm the skin with anti-oxidants and further remove skin cells by gently peeling them off

Rating

Value for money – costs £15 for the duo pack, available from Vie at Home either on-line or from a Vie consultant

Effectiveness – very effective, it’s a very thorough exfoliator, which leaves skin visibly more radiant, I have used this on a few people, and there is a definite improvement
Pampering factor – there is a lovely natural citrus fragrance from the orange peel oil, I like the fact it doesn’t contain synthetic fragrances
Highly recommended

Witch Blemish Stick

There are many products out there for spots, and I’ve tried most of them, and have generally been disappointed.  I missed out on acne as a teenager and generally have always had a good complexion but every 3 months or so I develop a large, painful and highly visible spot which takes a few days to develop and by the 3^rd day I can contain myself no longer and I attempt to squeeze it out, usually infect it and get a similarly horrid looking spot the following day, its then a case of concealing and drying it out, till eventually I can pick off the dry skin, leaving behind a scar.  I have tried putting on tea tree oil and rapid action spot treatments but NOTHING makes it go away.

Ingredients

The entire Witch range is based around witch hazel, which has been used for centuries to cleanse, tone and sooth our skin.  The other ingredients give it a stick consistency and alcohol is the first ingredient.  The effectiveness of this stick is due to the alcohol and the witch hazel.

Natural anti-bacterial, peroxide or oil control?

Typical methods of clearing up spots are:

Anti-bacterial – killing the bacteria that causes acne ranging from aggressive ie benzoyl peroxide to natural ie tea tree oil, lavender and white tea
Keratolytic - Removing dead skin cells eg salicylic acid, AHA’s, Retinol
Regulate sebum (oil) production ie Zinc PCA
Anti-inflammatory – calming the skin down ie witch hazel, aloe vera
Repair – promote wound healing and cell re-growth – vitamin C & E

Rating

Value for money – excellent, costs £1.70 from most supermarkets, Boots & Superdrug etc
Effectiveness – this works for me as it has a very drying effect on the spot itself rather than the surrounding skin and it kills off the bacteria. 
Pampering factor – not too applicable for spot control!
Highly Recommended – and would be interested to hear other user’s experiences

Radiant Skin Peel, Renu by Susan Molyneux

This is a weekly gentle skin peel, I have used on and off for years and love using it and seeing radiant skin afterwards.

Ingredients

Papaya enzyme (papain)
Lactic Acid
Vitamin C
Blackcurrant Seed Oil

Peels or Scrubs?
There are pros and cons for each of the above, but the general consensus is that an activity to boost cell renewal once a week, and there are several exfoliating scrubs on the market.  Skin Peels outside of a salon are a bit rarer, as they can be a bit aggressive and not suitable for all skins.  Renu have formulated a very effective yet gentle skin peel for home use.

How it Works

Lactic acid and Papaya enzyme are the two natural fruit based (AHA’s) ingredients responsible for removing dry, dead skin cells which would give the skin a dull, dry appearance.  Lactic Acid is frequently used in skin peels and can give a slight burning sensation if used at high levels, which is why skin peels are typically done professionally.  Papaya is an enzyme that’s aids digestion and tenderises meat as it breaks down proteins.  This particularly papaya is encapsulated which 1) protects in in the formulation and enhances its activity on the skin and 2) means it can pass through the skin barrier (stratum corneum) to be more effective than other papaya peels.  Vitamin C is a power anti-oxidant that brightens the skin and gives radiance, this would also be boosted by the Lactic Acid which is effective against hyperpigmentation and will assist in evening up skin tone.  Blackcurrant Seed Oil is a potent source of Omega 3 & 6, which are essential fatty acids (EFA’s) which are present in the skin barrier, acting as the “cement” between the cells, and providing a strong, yet flexible barrier.

Skin Affinity

This has been formulated for home use and is gentle.  The manufacturer recommends leaving it on for 5-10 minutes only and as not being suitable for hypersensitive and vascular complexions.   I would suggest doing a sensitivity test for 1+ hour on the inside of your arm before leaving it on for any longer.  I regularly leave it on overnight, and see dramatically radiant results in the morning.  It’s quite heavy, but the cream soon sinks in and does its work.  However, this is way over the manufacturers recommended time period.

Rating

Value for money – upper mass market price bracket at £30.95, available online from Monu Skincare, online beauty stores and via independent consultants
Effectiveness – Delivers visibly radiant skin via a fruit enzyme peel in a gentle manner, suitable for home use
Pampering factor – very high, feels super rich, with natural fruit fragrances
Highly recommended, as are other Monu products
USP – made in Cheltenham, UK, so you will be supporting UK manufacturing!

Inecto’s Pure Coconut Hair Serum

Hair serums tend to come in quite small bottles and are expensive in comparison to shampoos and conditioners.  However, they are a godsend to those of us with slightly frizzy, wavy hair.  This product is in a larger than average pack size and is around 1/10 of the price of some of the designer hair serums.

Ingredients

Blend of silicones and coconut oil.

What’s the Difference between Serums?

Very little, they all contain a blend of silicones, which have the function of laying the hair cuticle flat so it appears less frizzy and gives a gloss, creates a shield for the hair shaft which would prevent too much moisture absorption (remember Monica from Friends when she was on holiday in a humid climate).  Some serums may also contain additional nice ingredients for the hair i.e. keratin, hydrolyzed vegetable proteins. 

Hair Affinity

All serums, due to their silicone blend, will have a high affinity to hair, this particular product contains pure coconut oil, which traditionally has been used for decades by women in the Pacific Islands to protect and nourish their hair from the sun and elements.

Rating

Value for money – unbeaten price at £2.19 for a 50 ml product from Savers, TJ Hughes and independent pharmacies, designer hair serums in supermarkets typically cost £11.00 per 100ml

Effectiveness – smoothes frizz and adds shine, makes hair softer, more supple and luxuriant

Pampering factor – nice fragrance, a little goes a long way, acts as a hair treatment in addition

Highly Recommended

Ren’s Moroccan Rose Otto Ultra-moisturising body oil

I love this product as the Rose fragrance is so feminine and stays on the skin for hours afterwards.  The older we get the more moisturisation our skin needs to stop looking dehydrated and aged, due to loss of elasticity.  I find that most body lotions do not deliver sufficient moisturisation, and hence would recommend anyone with dry skin or into their 40’s + wanting to have glowing, soft, youthful looking skin to try this product.

Ingredients

Rose oil only appears 5^th on the list, after rice germ, jojoba and macadamia nut oils, but there are lots of other natural vegetable oils that are good sources of Ceramides (Carthane oil) Phospholipids (glycine soya), Anti-oxidant (cranberry seed oil) Omega 6 & 7 (Argan oil & Sea Buckthorn oil)  - so some very high quality natural ingredients.

Body Lotion, Butter, Soufflé, Oil or Spray?

Oils would definitely be better for the skin, particularly vegetable oils which are similar to skins own sebum.  However, because they tend to be greasy and leave a residue on the skin, sheets and clothes, they tend not to be so popular, so a product that delivers the benefit of the natural oils but none of the negatives is indeed a truly special product. 

Sprays tend to be a combination of vegetable oils and silicones to give a non-greasy feel.  Body lotions and Soufflé’s often contain high levels of silicone, that’s why a small amount in the hand covers a lot of body.  Butters tend to have a high vegetable fat content such as shea, coconut or cocoa butter.  A “proper butter” will stay in place when placed on its side, rather than follow gravity, and resemble butter in its texture, and be hard to touch but melt softly upon skin contact. 

Skin Affinity

This sinks in beautifully and does not leave a greasy residue on the skin. 

Rating

Value for money – upper mass market price bracket at £34.00, available in John Lewis, Selfridges, Liberty & Space NK

Effectiveness – delivers intense hydration and essential nourishment into the skin, with a feminine rose fragrance that stays on the skin for hours, and leaves the skin glowing and healthier looking

Pampering factor – very high, fragrant and norishing

Highly Recommended

L'Occitane Ultra Rich Face Cream

L’Occitane Ultra Rich Face Cream

There are many good night creams on the market and I usually consider the pack claims and then check the ingredients to see if they can actually deliver.  I also assess how well it sinks into my skin.

Ingredients of Interest

Shea butter - 2nd ingredient in terms of volume, very rich vegetable fat which is moisturising,  anti-inflammatory, protects against UV rays and is quickly absorbed into the skin

Glycerin - cheap ingredient but effective in keeping in moisture

Sodium PCA - occurs naturally and helps skin keep in moisture

Light Cream, Rich Cream or Serum?

This is recommended for night time use, so its fine to have something heavier on the skin whilst sleeping.  This feels heavy on application, but soon feels lighter as your skin drinks it in.  The pack claims 25% Shea butter, which is quite decent amount of a vegetable oil priced around £5 / kg, also claims 24 hour protection and hydration and the glycerin and Sodium PCA would back up the 24 hour hydration claim.  I find my skin looks plumper (in a nice way) and moisturised the following morning.

   

Skin Affinity

Be wary of products that take a long time to sink into the skin, these tend to contain a lot of silicones which do not really offer any benefit to the skin, they just feel amazing.  Vegetable oils will be highly compabitible with the skin, and therefore get absorbed very quickly, almost like your skin is thirsty and is drinking it in.

  

Rating

Value for money – upper mass market price bracket at £29.50, available in most department stores and L’Occitane stores

Effectiveness – 24 hrs hydration with ingredients to back it up, my skin looks discernably plumped after using

Pampering factor – very high, feels super rich

Highly Reoommended

Expose Summer Bronze Self Tanning Mousse with Aloe Vera

There are many fake/self tans on the market and some of which are quite expensive.  I guess the perception is that the better the quality of the brand, the less likely one is to get streaks and a dodgy looking colour.   Well, I don’t believe that’s necessarily so,

Ingredients

All self tans will have to contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as this is the product that changes the skin colour, and whilst the skin is changing colour it gives off the characteristic unpleasant odour, reminiscent (to me anyway) of rotting mushrooms.  The percentage of DHA used will determine the level of colour so slow build up one will contain very little and smell a little less, whereas a higher level one will promise a deeper, longer lasting tan and be more smell usually.  Ethrylose is also sometimes used as an ingredient to compliment the action of the DHA, but doesn’t really work alone.   Bronze coloured pearls are sometimes used to give a shimmery effect and these would the same as you would find in a blusher or bronzing powder, these would be the CI numbers on the ingredients list.  Sometimes vanilla or caramel is added to try and mask the odour.

Lotion, Mousse or Spray?

The other ingredients used will be depending on whether it’s a lotion, mousse or spray, therefore it’s a case of trial and error to see which you find gives the best result.  Lotions are fluid and they tend to run down the legs this can potentially cause streaking, mousse’s dispense a smaller amount onto the skin and it stays where applied, and they penetrate the skin quite efficiently too.  Sprays give good coverage and sometimes bronzing pearls are added so you can see you have applied, sprays are probably the best for solo back applications, only problem is a bit on inhalation! 

Skin Preparation

The better the condition of the skin the better the appearance of the tan as it works on the surface skin cells and if these are dry, flaky etc it will be exaggerated!  So moisturise, exfoliate, scrub etc a few hours prior to application or a quick and easy way (assuming you moisturise regularly) would be to use a body brush to remove dead skin cells.

Oops!

To avoid very dark brown hands, use latex gloves, which can be purchased from any chemist, I also apply the product to my gloved back of hand to apply to hard to reach areas.  Corrector wipes are very good as you never know how well you have done until the colour has fully developed.

Rating

Value for money – excellent, costs £1 from Savers

Effectiveness – does the job, non-streaky, nice even colour that will lasts about 5 days
Pampering factor – not that much, but same as other self tans

Highly Reoommended