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Friday, 18 May 2012

Bright Eyed and Bushy Tailed Eye Cream

English Rose Cosmetics is a brand new skin care brand I’m currently developing.  I’ve spent time researching ingredients and developing formulations and am delighted to announce I will be going into production soon.  My website will go live by September 2012 hopefully. 

But first I’d like to share with you how I’ve formulated my first under Eye Cream

Why do we get dark circles and under eye bags?
Its a consequence of short nights, early wake-ups, stress and tiredness, but you knew that already.  Dark circles and under-eye bags are due to a slowing down of microcirculation causing blood to congregate in capillaries, making them more visible which is first sign of dark circles. Microcirculation is decreased because of a dilatation of blood capillaries, and weaknesses in capillaries. The membrane surrounding the capillaries is also weak and leads to blood leakage. Blood will accumulate in the extra-cellular matrix, and the degradation of hemoglobin (by oxidation) will create bilirubin, a blue-green pigment making the dark circles appear worse.  In addition, because of the slow down of blood and lymphatic microcirculation there will be water and lymph leakage thus causing the  appearance of bags under the eyes. Age is also a factor of bags, as the supporting tissues are less strong and fat will cluster in the under eye bags.

How Do We Prevent Dark Circles and Bags?
1.     Stimulate blood and lymphatic microcirculation
2.     Strengthen blood capillaries to prevent blood and water leakage
3.     Prevent hemoglobin degradation (which create bilirubin by oxidation)
4.     Get more sleep!

Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye at 5% 
There are a handful of actives that decrease dark circles and under eye bags, I found the evidence for Cytobiol the most impressive and have used it at 5% so it should bloody work!  It’s a synergistic blend of the following ingredients:-
1.        Esculin and fraxin from the bark of a European Ash tree (Fraxinus excelsior) these are clinically proven to reinforce capillaries, reduce blood leakage and elimate the pigments responsible for skin colorantion and erase signs of tiredness.
2.       Organic silicon is already present in collagen and elastic and helps reinforce the structure and elasticity of the vessels and makes the connective tissues stronger and more flexible. Organic silicon helps reinforce capillaries structure, completing the action of esculin and fraxin.
3.       Vitamin B3 also reinforces the structure of the blood vessels and helps to maintain or restore a normal blood flow in capillaries.

Additional actives used
1.      Sodium Hyaluronate – intense hydration and repair UV damage
2.      Tocopherol – anti-oxidant
3.      Allantoin – soothes skin and promotes cell regeneration
4.      Creatine – improve skin firmness by boosting collagen production

What to look for in an under eye cream
As the skin around the eyes is much thinner than elsewhere on your face and body, pick a product that sinks  in with virtually no rubbing in.  Dot a small amount under the eyes using the ring finger and massage in small circles on the outer corner of the eyes to help reduce fine lines.  Look for actives/ingredients that have been proven to work and are used at a high enough level to be effective, any good quality ingredient will have good evidence that can demonstrate how effective it is – don’t be afraid to do your own research, and don't just spend £60 or more under the assumption it has to be good.  I'm going to be selling mine for under £15 for 15ml and I've used a clinically proven active at 5% as well as other anti-ageing actives.

If your using an anti-ageing day or night cream, and it sinks in nicely, you should be able to use this under your eye and thus save yourself a bit of money by not buying two separate ingredients.  If you want to do something about hiding the wrinkles than look for eye creams that contain optical blurring.  My second under eye cream will likely have ingredients proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as ingredients for giving a soft focus effect!


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