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Sunday 16 March 2014

Eye Make Up Remover Comparison: Micellar Water vs Boots Botanics



I’ve been quite interested in Micellar Water’s and I had Oil/Water 2 Phase Eye Make Up remover already – so decided to compare the two. 

Micellar Water, Pour ma belle peau (I think is the brand name) manufactured by Drammock International, UK and costs £1.99 for 200ml from Savers

Micellar Waters are typically 90% water, glycerin is a typical humectant used, Panthenol (Vit B) is in there too, other ingredients are emulsifiers, solvents and oils. Its’ more chemical than natural but its chemistry that gives it the innovation.  The thing I dislike about this product is the Parfum which contains a whopping 11 allergens, and smells like a fabric softener.  The manufacturer clearly wanted to choose a very low cost fragrance here.


Soothing Eye Make-Up Remover from Boots Botanics costs £2.99 for 150ml
 
The label makes a big deal that its’ Botanical and contains Iceland moss hydrates which sooth and are blessed in Kew Gardens!  The reality is its water, silicones, solvents, salt, 6 parabens, another 2 preservatives and 2 artificial colours.  The Iceland Moss is there before the preservatives so probably around 0.5-1% there is no Parfum which is good and has a pleasant non odour. There are 2 phases ie water and oil which is a bit of gimmick rather than more beneficial that way and needs to be shaken well before use.

I’m not a big consumer of eye make- up remover products as I’m a contact lens wearer and normally tint my lashes or wear lash extensions, so this is not a definitive guide to the best make up remover on the market, its’ what I’ve happened to select. 

What is a Micellar Water?
They are spherical liquid crystals and form spontaneously when you put molecules that are the right sort of shape into water.  The end result is a sphere enclosing some water inside and are really good for trapping small quantities of oil.  They can reduce the irritancy of some detergents but conversely reduce the effectiveness of actives as they are good at inactivating things.
Effectiveness - both are effective at removing eye make-up remover, I found the Micellar Water performed more efficiently and quickly though.
Skin Affinity - unsurprisingly the Boots one felt a lot oiler and left an oily residue on the skin, however the odour was more pleasant.  I enjoyed the effectiveness and watery feel of the Micellar Water, it felt more refreshing and evaporates quickly without any residue, however the fragrance was unpleasant and lingers.
Sensitive skin - going by the ingredients I would be reluctant to recommend either, the Micellar Water has 11 allergens and the Boots one contains 8 preservatives
Value for Money – there are not expensive formulations and this is reflected in the price, generally make-up removers shouldn’t be that expensive.
Recommendations – I wouldn’t recommend either of these brands as I think the Boots one is a bit misleading about its Kew Garden naturalness with only 1% maximum plant extract.  I wouldn’t recommend this Micellar Water due to the unpleasant Parfum but would recommend trying another brand of Micellar Water.



Psst!
I have been doing a lot of work on Micellar Water’s and hope to bring one under the English Rose Cosmetics brand, I have a wonderful image I want to use.  I’ve selected a marine active to use but want to evaluate if it to make sure its effective in a micellar water.

Friday 7 March 2014

What is the evidence behind claims of Bright Eyed and Bushy Tailed under Eye Cream?



In the previous posts I explained the causes of dark circles and puffy eyes and how treating the problem now, could help prevent bags in later life read here.  Prior to that I did a post on an eye cream that I was developing called Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed eye cream which is now a best seller on Amazon read here

The claims are based on an active called Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye which comes from a highly respected cosmetic ingredient manufacturer in France called Gattefosse, so in this post I will share the study they did on this active. 
INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Niacinamide (and) Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract (and) Silanetriol Potassium Citrate

The active ingredient Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye was included at 5% in a formulation and tested across a panel of mature women and results gave an average improvement of 11.4% on puffiness while under eye bags reduced by 17.4%. The most notable result was an incredible 74% reduction in dark circles.  This was an in vivo study so the results are realistic as to what users can expect.



Dark circle reduction study:  
19 female volunteers aged 28-57 years (mean age 43) No placebo was used.
Dark circle reduction measured by the following methods:
·         Colour intensity of skin under eyes using Chronometer/light variable chromaticity coordinates and ITA
·         Digital photos in cross-polarised light camera
·         Clinical evaluation by trained assessor of intensity and surface of dark circles
·         Self-assessment of intensity and surface of dark circles
Results achieved were brightening of dark shadows by 74% reduction on average, with one volunteer having a result of 135% dark shadow brightening

Anti-puffiness and bag reduction study:
30 female volunteers aged 35-55 years No placebo was used.
Puffiness-reduction measured by the following methods:
·         Profilometric Analysis by fringe projection of puffiness volume
·         Clinical quotation according to dermatologist photographs
·         Self-evaluation
Results achieved were reduction of eye puffiness by 11.4% and bag reduction by 17.4%


Summary

The measurements were a combination of scientific measurements, clinical assessment by a professional and self-assessment by the volunteers and there were measurable and visible improvements after the 28 day study.  Further monthly use should demonstrate continued improvement.



The main reason I selected this active over the other eye problem actives available was its ability to reinforce the capillary structure under the eyes which are weakened by stagnant blood (dark circles) and fluid leaking (puffy eyes) as this seems the key to avoiding bags later in life.  As we age, the area under the eyes sags (along with everything else!) and the role of organic silicon is really important to maintain the structure and elasticity in the delicate eye area.

To ensure Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed eye cream will deliver results, Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye is used at 5% as recommended by the manufacturer.

Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed can be purchased here