What is the evidence behind claims of Bright Eyed and Bushy Tailed under Eye Cream?

In the previous posts I explained the causes of dark circles and puffy eyes and how treating the problem now, could help prevent bags in later life read here.  Prior to that I did a post on an eye cream that I was developing called Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed eye cream which is now a best seller on Amazon read here

The claims are based on an active called Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye which comes from a highly respected cosmetic ingredient manufacturer in France called Gattefosse, so in this post I will share the study they did on this active. 

INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Niacinamide (and) Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract (and) Silanetriol Potassium Citrate

The active ingredient Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye was included at 5% in a formulation and tested across a panel of mature women and results gave an average improvement of 11.4% on puffiness while under eye bags reduced by 17.4%. The most notable result was an incredible 74% reduction in dark circles.  This was an in vivo study so the results are realistic as to what users can expect.

Dark circle reduction study:  

19 female volunteers aged 28-57 years (mean age 43) No placebo was used.

Dark circle reduction measured by the following methods:

·         Colour intensity of skin under eyes using Chronometer/light variable chromaticity coordinates and ITA

·         Digital photos in cross-polarised light camera

·         Clinical evaluation by trained assessor of intensity and surface of dark circles

·         Self-assessment of intensity and surface of dark circles

Results achieved were brightening of dark shadows by 74% reduction on average, with one volunteer having a result of 135% dark shadow brightening

Anti-puffiness and bag reduction study:

30 female volunteers aged 35-55 years No placebo was used.

Puffiness-reduction measured by the following methods:

·         Profilometric Analysis by fringe projection of puffiness volume

·         Clinical quotation according to dermatologist photographs

·         Self-evaluation

Results achieved were reduction of eye puffiness by 11.4% and bag reduction by 17.4%

Summary

The measurements were a combination of scientific measurements, clinical assessment by a professional and self-assessment by the volunteers and there were measurable and visible improvements after the 28 day study.  Further monthly use should demonstrate continued improvement.

The main reason I selected this active over the other eye problem actives available was its ability to reinforce the capillary structure under the eyes which are weakened by stagnant blood (dark circles) and fluid leaking (puffy eyes) as this seems the key to avoiding bags later in life.  As we age, the area under the eyes sags (along with everything else!) and the role of organic silicon is really important to maintain the structure and elasticity in the delicate eye area.

To ensure Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed eye cream will deliver results, Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye is used at 5% as recommended by the manufacturer.

Bright Eyed & Bushy Tailed can be purchased here

Bright Eyed and Bushy Tailed Eye Cream

English Rose Cosmetics is a brand new skin care brand I’m currently developing.  I’ve spent time researching ingredients and developing formulations and am delighted to announce I will be going into production soon.  My website www.english-rose-cosmetics.com will go live by September 2012 hopefully. 

But first I’d like to share with you how I’ve formulated my first under Eye Cream

Why do we get dark circles and under eye bags?
Its a consequence of short nights, early wake-ups, stress and tiredness, but you knew that already.  Dark circles and under-eye bags are due to a slowing down of microcirculation causing blood to congregate in capillaries, making them more visible which is first sign of dark circles. Microcirculation is decreased because of a dilatation of blood capillaries, and weaknesses in capillaries. The membrane surrounding the capillaries is also weak and leads to blood leakage. Blood will accumulate in the extra-cellular matrix, and the degradation of hemoglobin (by oxidation) will create bilirubin, a blue-green pigment making the dark circles appear worse.  In addition, because of the slow down of blood and lymphatic microcirculation there will be water and lymph leakage thus causing the  appearance of bags under the eyes. Age is also a factor of bags, as the supporting tissues are less strong and fat will cluster in the under eye bags.

How Do We Prevent Dark Circles and Bags?
1.     Stimulate blood and lymphatic microcirculation
2.     Strengthen blood capillaries to prevent blood and water leakage
3.     Prevent hemoglobin degradation (which create bilirubin by oxidation)
4.     Get more sleep!

Cytobiol™ Lumin Eye at 5% 
There are a handful of actives that decrease dark circles and under eye bags, I found the evidence for Cytobiol the most impressive and have used it at 5% so it should bloody work!  It’s a synergistic blend of the following ingredients:-
1.        Esculin and fraxin from the bark of a European Ash tree (Fraxinus excelsior) these are clinically proven to reinforce capillaries, reduce blood leakage and elimate the pigments responsible for skin colorantion and erase signs of tiredness.
2.       Organic silicon is already present in collagen and elastic and helps reinforce the structure and elasticity of the vessels and makes the connective tissues stronger and more flexible. Organic silicon helps reinforce capillaries structure, completing the action of esculin and fraxin.
3.       Vitamin B3 also reinforces the structure of the blood vessels and helps to maintain or restore a normal blood flow in capillaries.

Additional actives used

1.      Sodium Hyaluronate – intense hydration and repair UV damage
2.      Tocopherol – anti-oxidant
3.      Allantoin – soothes skin and promotes cell regeneration
4.      Creatine – improve skin firmness by boosting collagen production

What to look for in an under eye cream
As the skin around the eyes is much thinner than elsewhere on your face and body, pick a product that sinks  in with virtually no rubbing in.  Dot a small amount under the eyes using the ring finger and massage in small circles on the outer corner of the eyes to help reduce fine lines.  Look for actives/ingredients that have been proven to work and are used at a high enough level to be effective, any good quality ingredient will have good evidence that can demonstrate how effective it is – don’t be afraid to do your own research, and don't just spend £60 or more under the assumption it has to be good.  I'm going to be selling mine for under £15 for 15ml and I've used a clinically proven active at 5% as well as other anti-ageing actives.

TOP TIP

If your using an anti-ageing day or night cream, and it sinks in nicely, you should be able to use this under your eye and thus save yourself a bit of money by not buying two separate ingredients.  If you want to do something about hiding the wrinkles than look for eye creams that contain optical blurring.  My second under eye cream will likely have ingredients proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as ingredients for giving a soft focus effect!

Correct & Perfect, Virgin Vie

This is so much better than Touché Éclat!  I used to use concealers to cover up unsightly spots, but it was always difficult to match my pale skin tone.  Then Touché Éclat came out and became a best seller, and a benchmark for anyone wanting to bring out a concealer.   Although I love the glamorous sounding name, I was never that impressed with Touché Éclat as I found it too fluid, too much is dispensed which requires a lot of rubbing in, which is not good for the fragile skin under the eye.  Correct & Perfect is four concealers in one component with a mirror, a true multi-tasking cosmetic!

The Ideal Concealer

Should not feel too oily or fluid, it should be slightly dry and powdery to the touch
The pay off should be in the desired place i.e. under the eye or on the blemish rather than on the finger
Long wearing and non-transferring i.e. onto clothes
It should have excellent coverage i.e. conceal whets is underneath
Require minimal blending as area to cover is usually small or skin i.e. under eye can be more fragile

Protect & Perfect Concealer

Green to tone down red i.e. veins around the nose
Lilac to brighten sallow skin, very good for those darker shadows in the eye socket
Light beige to conceal under eye shadows
Medium beige to conceal spots

Ingredients

I won’t go into too much detail as I lost the original box, and also they are usually very similar to foundations in as much as they contain iron oxides which are usually coated to make them feel and spread better and be longer wearing and more waterproof.  Some may contain ceramides to strengthen cellular wall or anti-bacterial actives if they are for covering up spots.  Light reflecting pigments or optical blurring spheres are also used to help disguise wrinkles and give the skin a more even, luminous skin tone.

Rating

Value for money – £10 is brilliant value for four concealers in one component plus a mirror and it lasts a long time.  Touché Éclat costs around £23.00 and you only get 1 concealer. Available on line http://www.vieathome.com/shop/product.aspx?id=3099&q=1&level1Id=643&level2Id=1072 or from a Vie consultant
Effectiveness – able to pick up a small amount, and blend it in with minimal effort, gives excellent coverage.  
Pampering factor – it’s a handy component which doesn’t take up much room in the handbag, convenient little mirror and ensures perfect complexion anywhere you take it
Highly recommended – put it this way, if I brought out a concealer it would look something like this