What’s the Difference between an Anti-Perspirant and a Deodorant?

Not as glamorous as the usual products I review, but I’d like to save you money as there really is no need to spend more than £1.  A deodorant masks odour and prevents odour bacteria forming and an Anti-Perspirant clogs the sweat pores.

Deodorant Ingredients

Triclosan - effective against gram positive and gram negative bacteria
Alcohol – drying effect and also kills of bacteria
Perfume or Essential oils to mask odour
The rest of the ingredients will differ depening on whether the deodorant is  a aerosol, gel, stick, liquid

AP Ingredients

Aluminium chlorohydrate or aluminium-zirconium compounds  – temporarily clogs the sweat glands (removed when washing)
Soothing ingredients ie Allantonin, aloe vera
The rest of the ingredients will differ depening on whether the AP is a aerosol, gel, stick, liquid

Parabens

Very few deodorants or AP’s contain parabens because the formulations do not require as much preservation as other cosmetic products, in fact Triclosan is a good preservative.  I'm personally not against parabens a lot of the information out there is misleading, and it has recently been declared safe after an intensive review.  http://www.ctfa.org/newsroom/20120307

Effectiveness & Testing

I personally find AP more effective than deodorant and crystal rocks, but it’s a matter of personal taste.  A small percentage of people are allergic to aluminium compounds and experience skin irritancy.  I used to sell the aluminium and zirconium compounds to the personal care industry and I can share that there around 10 producers of these ingredients worldwide, they all conduct sweat tests on their ingredients to give the 24 or 48 hour protection.  The brand owners use these tests and the guideline formulations, add their own fragrance/essential oils/skin calming ingredients and the aluminium-zirconium compounds at the manufacturers recommended level.

So any AP on the market that states 24 hour protection is going to be as effective as the next one claiming 24 hour protection.  It’s all a matter of which fragrance, medium you prefer, a supermarket own brand for 60p may be identical to a luxury brand costing £5.00

Amplex Anti-Perspirant

I have used this one for the past decade, it’s non-staining, I like the clear roll on medium, not overly fragranced and costs 89p from Savers, and I have no hesitation recommending it.

Purchasing AP’s on Holiday

If you run out of your AP on holiday and the only brand you recognise in the shop seems 5 x more expensive than the rest.  Simply look at the label if it contains aluminium or zirconium compounds and says 24 Hr or 48 Hr, that you can have complete confidence in buying the cheaper one.

Fab Pore Facial Peel by Soap & Glory

I have fallen in love with Soap & Glory’s packaging and this Facial Peel was making interesting claims ie Pore Shrinking so I decided to give it a try. 

Key Ingredients

Kaolin – this appears quite high on the ingredient list and is a typical ingredient for masks, so I would consider this to be a mask rather than a facial peel  

Salicylic acid – is encapsulated in the blue beads, and is a typical ingredient for oily skins as it “eats” dead skin cells
Mushroom extract (fomes offincals) – for pore size reduction
Laminaria saccharina – reduces sebum flow and helps stop acne bacteria

Kaolin/mud masks, peel off mask, peel, exfoliator?

Mud masks and peel off’s work on the same principal ie occlusive layer that sits on the skin surface and stops it “breathing” and pushes out debris clogging pores, which is then removed along with the mask, I think its very effective for removing blackheads and excess oils.  Peels tend to be made from fruit acids  which have a enzymatic effect on breaking down the cellular bonds and encouraging the skin to release dead cells.  Exfoliators also work by gently massaging something abrasive into the problem areas to remove debris from blocked pores and release dead skin cells.  All have their places and its down to personal preference, I personally find mud or clay masks too drying and I like that the manufacturer has combined glycerine with kaolin as this makes it less drying.  I think honey would be the ideal ingredient in a mask as it would moisturise the skin at the same time, and I think it would be better to regulate sebum product rather than drying out the skin, as the skin will naturally want to produce more oil.

Is it possible to reduce pore size?

This simple answer is No, its genetic like the size of your ears. However, it’s possible to “reduce the appearance” of pores.  Look out for this phrase as it’s’ often used with cosmetic products, especially ones claiming wrinkle reduction, appearance is subjective and therefore open to interpretation!  People with oily skin tend to have larger pores while people with dry skin generally have smaller pores. When oils collect on the skin, they can clog pores and cause pores to appear larger so by preventing dirt from building up in the pores, it would be possible to reduce pore size that is until they get clogged again!

Rating

Value for money – costs £8.00 from Boots, and good value with the current 3 for 2 offers, but expensive compared to other clay masks

Effectiveness – I’m not sure the benefits of salicylic acid, mushroom and laminara saccharina extract are really experienced in the short contact time, and whether they make it through the kaolin/glycerin barrier
Pampering factor – although it was effective in scaring my partner, I don’t really like the dry feel of having too much oil stripped from my skin
Recommended – I wouldn’t buy it again
USP – Full marks for the humour retro packaging

Glow Job Daily Radiance Moisture Lotion by Soap & Glory

This is a daily moisturiser offering radiance in a novel way by encapsulated iron oxides (micro bronzer beads).

Key Ingredients

Encapsulated iron oxides for bronzing effect – typical mixture for foundations

Mica & Silica – to give mattifying effect and nice skin feel
Orange Peel Oil – natural fragrance (there are synthetic aromas and fragrances added too)
Biosaccharide Gum – the best ingredient in it

Tinted Moisturiser or Foundation

This is essentially a tinted moisturiser albeit in a novel way.  Most tinted moisturisers come in one shade only and give a nice glow to the skin; they don’t tend to give much coverage as their main function is as a moisturiser.  Modern foundations are so light and sheer with added actives for moisturising, anti-ageing and SPF which are long wearing and very lightweight so if I felt I needed coverage/camouflage, I would opt for a foundation.

How it Works

On application the beads containing the iron oxides are broken and you mix them in with the rest of the moisturiser on application.  The effect is nice and glowing but I found the coverage quite poor.  The mica and silica give a nice smooth skin feel.  It also has a nice after feel from the Biosaccharide gum which is one of my absolute favourite ingredients, as this acts as a shield on the skin and delivers long term moisturise. I like the fact the strongest fragrance is from a natural source ie orange peel oil, I know a lot of you are swayed by a nice fragrance in a skin cream but trust me, synthetic fragrances are made up of at least 60 compounds, some of which may be irritating to the skin, so avoid highly fragranced cosmetics. 

A Bit Odd

The manufacturers No 12 top tip is to wear sunscreen, yet this ingredient does not contain any!  I would consider this No 1 top tip.

Rating

Value for money – won’t break the bank at £9.00 available from Boots, and good value with the current 3 for 2 offers, but I think there are comparable tinted moisturisers out there and definitely better foundations in the same price bracket

Effectiveness – The claim is radiance and it does deliver a lovely glow
Pampering factor – has a novelty effect which I like
Recommended – especially for the 3 for 2 deals, also they make wonderful gifts
USP – Full marks for the humours retro packaging

Sally Hansen Maximum Growth Cuticle & Nail Treatment

This is a really fantastic nail product and convenient to carry around in the handbag, as it’s no bigger than a pen. Its’ very effective against dry and brittle nails and helps keep nails in good condition during the winter months, when nails seem to suffer the most. Have you ever noticed how healthy your nails look on holiday? Well that’s because the Vitamin D from sunlight is beneficial to the nails.

Ingredients
It’s a combination of:-
Vegetable oils - Safflower seed, apricot kernel, wheat germ, coconut oil
Synthetic oils - paraffin liquid and cyclopentasiloxane
Vitamins – E, A, C, pro-vitamin B5 and Aloe

Application
The fluid mixture is applied via twisting the base to dispense the mixture through the brush so it can be brushed onto nails and cuticles. It’s then massaged in until completely absorbed, would also be effective if a nail hoof was used to push the cuticles back.

Effectiveness
The vitamins and vegetable oils are effective because the cuticles are softened and the gently massaged back, so you won’t see dried, cracking cuticles, the nails absorb the oils and become healthier and less brittle. I’ve personally found this more effective than paint on nail hardeners as me and nail polish tend to part company within hours! However this product could be improved by adding something like papaya extract as this would “eat away” the dead cuticles more effectively.

Rating
Value for money – good costs £5 - £6 and is available from Superdrug, Savers, Boots and anywhere with the Sally Hanson nail range, it also lasts a very long time.
Effectiveness – because the nails are less brittle, and cuticles are not cracking and stuck to the growing nail, stronger, healthier nails are achieved which are less likely to split and break off
Pampering factor – because it is so small and easy to carry in the handbag, its convenient to whip out and use on a train, stuck in traffic, waiting room etc, and give yourself a bit of nail massage
Recommended

How to Choose a Good Mascara

Out of the 6 mascaras that I possess, only 1 is less than 2 years old!  So I’d thought its time to buy a new one but what to get, there is such a variety out there.  Is there anything that compares to the lash extensions that I have now become addicted to?

Ingredients

Mascaras are straight forward consisting of black iron oxides, waxes and extras such as:-

Waterproofing agents for tear proof mascara
Silica spherical spheres that sit on your lashes to volumise
Cellulose or nylon fibres to extend the length of your lashes
Keratin and panthenol for condition – as the lash life cycle is around 4 weeks, I’m sceptical about this
Ingredients for curling lashes – bit sceptical about these too
Ingredients and coatings to make the formulation as hydrophobic as possible and hence give waterproofing and longer wear
Lash lengthening – that’s another blog!

I’m amazed that anyone pays over £10 for mascara, seeing as they contain almost identical ingredients. 

It’s all about the Brush

Fact:  A poor formulation will be greatly improved with a good brush, unfortunately a fabulous formulation will be sorely let down by a mediocre brush.  With this in mind it does help select good mascara, as one can automatically dismiss any brands that do not have a variety of different brushes or do not regularly bring out new brushes.  So a brands like Maybelline and Max Factor, for example offers many different types of brushes, regularly bring out new ones, some of which they even patent (which usually means they are onto a good thing!)

Application

Two coats will give a good effect, especially if the first coat is a primer containing the volumising and lengthening ingredients.

How men can be useful

Take a man along with you when choosing a new mascara and trial different mascaras on their hairy forearm to see which gives the best effect, as its not hygienic to try the testers on our lashes.

 Insider Tip

I’ve worked with ingredient suppliers all over the world and can share with you that most technologies for colour cosmetic comes from New Jersey and Japan, and there is a high concentration of the best colour cosmetic brands in the New York/New Jersey location ie Elizabeth Arden, Maybelline, Max Factor, Clinique etc who get shown these technologies first.

There are also opthamology approved mascara's, so good for contact lens wearers, but its usually mentiond in small print on the pack, or its worth calling the consumer help line. 

So to conclude I would select a mascara that comes from one of the US giant brands, with a new improved or patented brush, that of course volumises, lengthens and is waterproof etc.  I tend to look and see what Maybelline have to offer, they are always very innovative and excellent value for money.

Eyebright from Liz Earle

Soothing eye lotion, an absolute must have for contact lens wearers and sufferers of itchy, dry eyes and highly emotional people!

Ingredients

Eyebright – used for centuries by homeopaths to preserve the eyesight
Cornflower – used traditionally for weak eyes
Witch Hazel – is known to have ophthalmology uses
Organic Aloe Vera - used by traditional herbalists for eye pain

Eye lotions

These are very rare to find, generally its eye drops for non contact lens wearers.  I have been a contact lens wearer for decades, starting with hard lens, gas permeable, soft, tinted, soft perms, silicone and toric lens.  I have had more than my fair share of eye infections, cornea scarring, angry blood vessels and due to my eye condition (keratonic) the cure is wearing gas permeable lens, which are agonising when a speck of dust goes behind them.  So I know all about painful, itchy, bloodshot eyes and that’s when I put them in some mornings, not at the end of the day.

I have used eye drops suitable for lens wearers and the relief they offer is very brief.  I also always have this on hand as by quickly wiping my eyes with a moistened cotton pad, they are revived enough to put in contact lens, can be used to gently remove make-up.  When I’ve got trouble with my cornea and its inflamed I find leaving moistened pads on for 5 minutes calms the eye dramatically.  Effective in reducing puffy eyes, tear soaked eyes.

  
Rating

Value for money – £10.00 for a 150 ml bottle which will last a long time, available online and via John Lewis stores
Effectiveness – most effective product I’ve tried to relieve my poor eyes
Pampering factor – this is like a spa for your eyes
Highly Recommended

L’oreal Elvive Smooth Intense Anti-frizz Shampoo

I’ve never really had a favourite shampoo before and am usually content to try any brand which is on offer.  I selected this one as it claims to nourish and tame dry, frizzy rebellious hair and I quite liked the rebellious hair segmentation. 

Ingredients
The ingredients are pretty straightforward and fairy typical of most shampoo formulations which are intended to clean the hair of dirt and grease without irritating the scalp and stinging the eyes, smooth the hair cuticle and condition it, all in the quick time it takes to wash your hair.
Argan Oil – this appears halfway down the ingredient list and I believe is the main ingredient responsible for making this shampoo so effective.  Argan Oil is well known to revive and strengthen hair and tame frizz and is often used as a standalone product and I have friends who swear by using it as a hair treatment.  So to have it incorporated into a shampoo formulation gives you the benefits on a daily basis whilst getting your hair clean.
48 Hour Thermal protection is also offered, usually polymers provide this, but I’m not sure what’s giving the protection in this particular formulation

Natural vs. Performance Shampoos

I’ve been asked many times to recommend a good natural organic shampoo and I tend to ask if that persons hair is completely natural ie never been coloured, hi-lighted, blow dried, permed, heat styled etc.  As most women do not leave their hair completely natural, our hair is going to need ingredients that make it manageable and looking its best, and it’s very hard to achieve this with natural ingredients.  I’ve sold a lot of hair care and hair styling ingredients and it’s very hard to get a natural organic hair product with the performance of a more chemical based one. 

Good Hair Ingredients

Silicones are excellent, they smooth down the cuticles to give a more glossy effect with less flyaway
Vegetable proteins are absorbed into the hair keratin to strengthen the hair – actually beer would be a good source of this!
Quarternium and guar gums for conditioning
Oils – petrochemical or vegetable oil based are always good for improving shine and conditioning

Hair Type Segmentation

The only difference between blondes and brunette (hair that is) is that brunette hair is thinner, so not much difference between shampoos, extracts with blonde or brunette references ie chamomile or horse chestnut could be used but this would be in minuscule quantities.  Most designer hair ranges are made by contract manufacturers who also produce the supermarket ranges and would likely use very similar formulations, remember hairdressers are not cosmetic scientists, the biggest difference between a designer shampoo and supermarket shampoo is the profit margin, not the formulation or packaging costs!

Rating

Value for money – available from most stockists of shampoos and usually < £3.00 for 250 ml
Effectiveness – the foam is noticeably creamer than other shampoos and I now find after over a month of regular usage I occasionally need to use condition and serum instead of every time I washed my hair to make it look half decent
Pampering factor – nice creamy foam, fragrance, and hair is nicely cleansed without the aggressive squeaky feeling, and feels much softer and yes, is not so rebellious!
Highly Recommended